Barbara Chacour, a fellow WestView Newscontributor and a neighbor in the West Village,came into my office and asked what Iwas writing on this month. Having been real busy for the holidays, been in SF working and eating around, and having eaten all over town this week—honorable mention to Tuome in the East Village, Little Park in Tribeca, Shake well in Oakland, The Cavalier in San Francisco and another visit to Chez Panisse in Berkeley—I was somewhat filled with new-fangled restaurants.
Barbara said that the new restaurant at theWhitney had opened, which I found hardto believe, but I walked down WashingtonStreet the other night and there it was—abustling new restaurant nestled below the High Line called Santina, and not Untitled as the old-new restaurant in the Whitney isnamed. I went in and asked if it was part ofthe Whitney, and I was told it was not. It wastheir second Wednesday open, and I decidedI should try the place. I sat at the bar and wassomewhat amazed at the vibrancy and livelinessof the place. It felt summery and had areal Latin accent with lots of staff. I thought Iwas in Miami Beach, yet it was a cold Januarynight in the Meatpacking District.
I was well taken care of by a bar man whowas enthusiastic about the menu and sold meon maybe a little too much to eat, but I amhappy to report that it measured up and I willgo back quickly. Maybe before the summerwhen the seating area will expand a great dealbased on glass walls that open. The buildingis in fact designed by Renzo Piano and is attachedto the Whitney, but not part of themuseum. After being somewhat in awe ofwhoever created this place, I found out it isthe Major Food Group who are the darlingsof the NYC restaurant scene with most recentlyDirty French, and an expanding Parm, not to mention Carbone and Torrisi Italian Specialties. I had heard about them openingan Italian coastal seafood restaurant nearbyin the fall, but did not put two and two together.As the bar man explained, the placewas built with no expense spared, includingimpressive Murano Chandeliers and a threedimensional painting by Julian Schnabel.This area, with the High Line, The Standard,the Whitney and other current andupcoming restaurants, is and will become anepicenter for NYC hospitality.
My dinner started off with “Cecina” orchickpea flour pancakes that are servedwith a topping-filling, I choose Lamb Tartare and Calabrian Tuna (each $12).Both were smooth nuanced and very differentyet similar. The crepe or pancakewas freshly prepared with great texture andserved with a bottle of house made salsaverde and red- spicy sauce.
This would have been quite enough fordinner for me, but I did also order Fritto Misto ($15) and amongst many otherthings, celery never tasted better thanwhen deep fried. It is a generous plate, easilysuitable for sharing.
In addition I ordered a rice dish titled Guanciale E Pepe ($15), which is a Japanese short grain rice dressed like pasta. This one with pork and freshly ground pepper along with cheese was good, but maybe a little less fulfilling that my other choices; I also was getting pretty full and took most of it home.
I have to say, I felt the need to report onsomething sweet even though I was feelingmore full than I often do. But I am happy toreport that I finished three different smallcannoli. They were all filled with mascarponeand a variety of other flavors— pistachio,my favorite, or coconut or maraschinocherries. They are freshly fried and filledand are very hard to stop eating—even ifyou are not hungry for dessert!
Creating a successful restaurant is a tricky business especially in this town, but these guys, Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi and Jeff Zalaznick, seemed to have figured it out. From experiences eating in many of their places (but never scoring a reservation at Carbone despite many tries) they are very food and quality driven. People do line upor reserve 30 days in advance and pay dearlyfor that. Santina does seem to have verymuch of its own personality, much to theircredit, and does seem like it is already anothervery successful restaurant.
Santina 820 Washington Street
(at Gansevoort Street) 212 254-3000
