Chapter One is a new restaurant on Greenwich Ave opened by a few Irish guys as their first venture into the hospitality business. They have a very pretty website that speaks about the place as a classic American tavern updated. It includes very nice looking food photography and a good bit of press mention, a PR firm is definitely involved. I was excited to try the restaurant and did on a recent Tuesday night.
Walking into the place it did not reconcile with what I expected on the web site. I was going out with my insurance broker who wanted to take me for dinner and I thought I would “cook two birds” and have my dinner paid for and homework done and even talk insurance. Soon after we got to the empty restaurant at about 9:30 on Tuesday night, he said to me, “Boy do I hate the look of this place.” The look included an empty restaurant that does have a generic look about it, not matching my web site expectation. I quickly said, you do not have to pay for dinner, I will and just bear with me. Aside from the empty restaurant, there were a group of women at a table at the bar that filled the restaurant with an unpleasant amount of shrilly noise. I am happy to report that as the night went on, the sound began to be a bit less noticeable.
Service in the restaurant was not charismatic but it was pleasant and attentive and to our surprise when the food arrived and continued to arrive we were impressed that on a quiet night in a not overly exciting environment, the kitchen delivers. Warren Baird is the chef and an alum of Esca and it shows. My dining partner, having not been not thrilled to be there retreated to a “House Burger,” which when delivered he had absolutely no complaints about and was impressed. I did order more ambitiously and got the House made smoky pork rinds, skate bites, scallops and the house made carrot cake. I am happy to report all were respectable. The least engaging were the pork rinds which could have used a bit more flavor and made in fact with a bit grease but it all got better. The fried skate was almost like fish tacos without the taco. It did have a nice amount of contrasting textures and a pretty look. It could have used a bit more jalapeno mayo but I was relieved at this point. The scallops were quite perfect, snap peas, bacon, pearl onions and sorrel. In retrospect, I am not sure I got the sorrel, there were some sprouts on top of the dish but it all worked well together and beyond that it looking very good, it was cooked all just right and a relatively healthy summer dinner. The carrot cake was a quite updated version with a goat cheese glaze or sauce. It could have used a bit more nuts and fruit to give it a bit of zip but it was very pleasant.
Chapter one is a work in progress, opening in late May with a decent amount of press and with the challenge of getting some steam going before the rough summer months. We went when it was not opened to the street. It was a muggy night but the look would be more exciting opened and based on the food on a recent quiet Tuesday night, it does show promise and looking at the menu now, I am keen to go back and try more.
Chapter One 212 842-9146 Greenwich Ave, near West 10th
