. It’s not uncommon to have a flourishing business one day then come upon a store front shuttered with yesterday’s newspaper the very next. You may recall the Denton’s of ‘ino on Bedford St closing their doors just this past year. Yet nothing left the wine culture of NYC with a palate stuck in a gaping gasp more than the closing of ‘inoteca. The shutdown was well documented across all digital outlets, and the industry and enthusiasts alike crammed into that space for one last hurrah.
The news even spread overseas. My friend Allison, in from London, stopped by Sea Grape and she fondly recalled ‘inoteca as her city “go-to” wine bar. She left with a bottle of Pehu-Simonet Champagne as consolation. Luckily for her husband Neil, a childhood friend of mine, he was in town for business the weekend of the closing and we made it our Friday night destination.
During the week every wine related meeting I began with a mention of the impending end of the LES staple. The fervor and melancholy was palpable and I was certain everyone in the wine industry made a point of having one last glass. I was determined to do the same. Neil and I were pleasantly surprised not to encounter a line but less delighted to see every square inch of floor occupied by a fellow oenophile. There were some familiar faces amongst the elbow to elbow crowd. We managed to politely force ourselves to the bar to come upon even greater confusion and whether or not we’d even be served. I quickly got the attention of the overwhelmed bartender who handed me the cellar list and said it’d be about a half hour. My companion was taken aback, “That long for just a bottle of wine?” No seating, no dinner, just to stand and drink a bottle of wine?! Fortunately for us, I was recognised by a gentleman I had recently met at a wine tasting and he insisted we’d drink from his bottle. The Nebbiolo was absolutely superb. I believe it was an Antoniolo Gattinara ‘78, with mellow hints of coffee grinds and tobacco leaf on the nose and tasted like black tea soaked in wild blackberries with a touch of rustic grit. The quality of wine and gesture combined with the super charged illegal occupancy elevated the night into a “once in a lifetime” experience.
Our bottle of Mauro Veglio Barolo Vigneto Rocche 1996 arrived and since I wasn’t messing around, I requested a decanter to ensure proper aeration. It’s not every day I order a $150 bottle nevermind something this rare and unavailable, so I didn’t want to rush it; imagine standing shoulder to shoulder swirling a large glass decanter in the middle of the dining room. I was quite the spectacle, full of anticipatory glee. After 18 years of ageing and the hour from when we walked in, this baby was finally ours. The wine was herbal medium-bodied of supple slightly charred cherries and roasted nuts. The acidity and tannins were like an old couple keeping it all in balance. The energy in the room was so unique and sincere we offered small tastes to any nearby wino with a hint of curiosity on their face.
I wish I had more space to recap the following night’s exploits; yes I went back Saturday night. I couldn’t help but return for one last dose of that crazy encore at ‘inoteca. Farewell and Godspeed.
If you haven’t already, make sure to check it out local haunts such as Lelabar and Anfora. Continue to support great wine lists!
