Winter is coming! Fuel prices are up! My place is cold and drafty! Help!
For over a century, one of the most popular types of single family homes in NYC was the “Brownstone,” so called because of the readily available sandstone’s brown color. After many years, townhouses in general were all grouped together under that label, whether they had brick, limestone, terracotta, or brownstone façades.
It has been reported that there are about 50,000 Brownstones remaining in NYC, and about 10,000 in Manhattan. Considering that many of these homes could be 100 years old or more, there are bound to be many maintenance issues. Many of these older homes are in need of an energy makeover to ensure they are cozy and comfortable again.
We took a look at a typical brownstone townhouse in the neighborhood to see what energy improvements it could use.
In this case, we have a 4-story home with a full utility basement. The first floor is entered from the public sidewalk down a few steps to a vestibule. The front stairs up from the sidewalk to the parlor floor were removed many years ago, perhaps at the time the townhome was converted to multiple apartments. The owners live in the first two floors and garden, the third floor is divided for two 1BR apartments, and the 4th floor is a 2BR apartment. The mahogany staircase remains open from bottom to top floors, with a venting skylight above it. The home has been maintained with tender, loving care with many original details, and the front façade windows were replaced with new units that met the strict historic district guidelines.
The owner reported the top floor is much too cold in the winter, and there are drafts from several sources on various floors. The boiler is heated by natural gas, and window A/C units are put in for summer cooling. The only heating system thermostat is located on the first floor above the steam boiler.
Experience is such a great teacher! Without the expense and trouble of in-depth testing, I was able to surmise several factors for consideration.
First, the thermostat is reading the temperature where the room is warmer than other rooms; at any setting, it will sense the warmth and tell the boiler to shut down, leaving the other rooms starved for heat. A new location is needed if there is only one thermostat. Probably the most practical solution here is to replace the thermostat with a wireless component, so that the sensing device can be placed in a better location without rewiring the house. Then, when the device is set at 68-70 degrees, the boiler will continue to feed heat to all rooms more uniformly.
Second, there are stacks of fireplaces in the front and back rooms of each floor, open to their flues with no dampers. Fireplaces are notoriously wasteful providers of heat, since most of the fire’s heat goes up the chimney, and cold air comes down the chimney the rest of the time. Having tenants who might be unfamiliar with fire safety, to build wood fires in your home is risky, and the fireplaces are also a source of cold drafts and soot. Closing the flues with insulation and air barriers, keeping the firebox for decorative purposes only, will improve comfort noticeably. A more costly option is to add a new damper in the flues, install gas-fired logsets, and operate the dampers as you would for wood fires.
Third, the rear elevation has original wood double-hung windows with single glazing remaining. I do not recommend tearing them out for new ones. As long as there is sufficient framework intact, these windows can be improved to perform better than replacement windows. Historic preservationists such as Bob Yapp (http://www.bobyapp.com/consulting/field-workshops) conducting workshops in Mark Twain’s hometown of Hannibal MO have proven that repair and upgrade costs less and last longer than new windows. I suggest rigid metal and EPDM rubber weather-stripping on all exterior sides of the existing windows between sash and frame, and a layer of Styrofoam inside the weight pocket if there is room. If city laws will allow it, high quality metal storm and screen windows can be added on the exterior. Sometimes the laws will restrict you to use wood storm windows, even though they are less versatile. Of course, all joints between dissimilar materials should be sealed with quality long-lasting caulking.
Fourth, the roof is probably the largest source of heat loss in the building, and the chances of adequate insulation in the attic are slim to none for this home. There are no access points to the attic space. I believe providing two 32” by 32”access panels with trim that matches the existing ceiling moulding in the stairwell will allow inspection and maintenance. The insulation, if there is any, should be upgraded by having qualified installers blow in treated cellulose to a rating of at least R-38.
Fifthly a few minor points for easy improvements were noted. Some of the steam pipe wrapping is missing and should be immediately re-wrapped. A small skylight above the 4th floor kitchen can be more energy efficient with an added layer of safety glazing. A plexiglass sheet in a metal frame secured tightly, with weather-stripping, to the ceiling opening, will greatly reduce drafts.
In working with many historic homes, I respect the workmanship, the period styles, and the materials of their time. We connect with people of another era through the architecture they leave behind. There is nothing as intimate as the home to learn of their lifestyle and culture. Carefully adapting these homes to our time and life is an intimate act, and very gratifying.
