Brand new to the neighborhood is Primo 135, somewhat like a hide-away, yet on a well beaten path at 135 Seventh Avenue South. In a location that had been a very simple unassuming place, Jerry Stevens, a new restaurateur, has put his stamp on this space and turned it into an intimate, contemporary Italian fine dining restaurant.
Over two evenings I sampled a good bit of Victor Pastuizaca’s food that was developed as well with the help of a visiting chef, Andrea Zenin, from Venice. Jerry was keen to develop a lighter style, more nuanced Italian restaurant that was a bit playful and focused. Appetizers sampled included Tuna Tartare, Octopus Salad, Shrimp Carpaccio and Buffalo Mozzarella salad, (prices ranged from $16-$22). Tuna Tartare familiarly partnered with Guacamole was presented in generous amounts, and looking a bit like an insect with colorful crispy pasta antennas. Octopus in a very simple olive, tomato and cucumber salad was unencumbered, tender, and delicately fried so that it also had a slight crispness partnered with a tenderness.
The shrimp was clean and delicate, the citrus played a supporting role to the taste of the sea. Fried basil made the Caprese Salad a little different with a good grade of fresh buffalo mozzarella.
For main courses, we tried the pork chop, which was in a sweet and hot sauce nicely complementing the generous chop itself but maybe a little dry and it could have been improved by a little less cooking. It was served with rich mashed potatoes and well cooked broccoli rabe. Red snapper was slightly overcooked with a mushroom white wine sauce that I would have preferred playing a less dominant role on the plate. The price range for the main plates is $22 – $30.
Desserts stood out the most to me, the chocolate mousse was a soft version with textural components that made for a luscious dessert, akin to a tiramisu. The tiramisu was a family recipe that was more akin to a chocolate mousse – a very creamy and luscious dessert. The Millefoglie was freshly prepared with berries.
The restaurant is a cozy space that during the milder months can grow a good bit with outdoor space and a garden that is set off the street. Primo looks forward to being a casual place for brunch during the day, as well as a late night destination for a drink or coffee and dessert. Now, during the colder months, it is an intimate warm restaurant that produces clean versions of fine Italian classic dining, with a contemporary spin and is very much an extension of the personality of its proprietor, Jerry Stevens.
Primo 135 135 Seventh Avenue South 212 620-6196 http://www.primo135.com .
Other new restaurants in the neighborhood are….
Via Carota, 71 Grove Street – very new, and developed with personality by the proprietors of Isoda and Buvette, serving simple rustic Italian cuisine.
Nighthawks, 679 Greenwich Street at Christopher Street – the owner Fikret Uslu, a restaurateur setting out on his own, is turning the location of Hopper’s famous painting into becoming a classic for food as well. (See article in this issue.)
