SnackBar
Even the most Zen among us need to let rip a few curses while trying to assemble Ikea furniture or slicing off a fingernail (with a sliver of finger) while shredding kale. Awkward explanations call for minced words; censored expletives may require a few minced oaths.Blasphemous and taboo phrases not meant for print or prim society are chopped up, scrambled, and reassembled into a colorful vocabulary, all under the oddly appropriate label of minced oaths.Censorship and the use of euphemismsmay be annoying in principal, but they can be amusing in practice.Classic potty-mouthed cartoon characters like Donald Duck, Sylvester, and Yosemite Sam use minced oaths to great effect. Sylvester’s spluttering exclamation of “suffering succotash!” makes me smile every time.It is much more fun to say and to picture than the original “suffering savior.”
Chocolate-covered obscenities (like fudge) can be great for diffusing aggravating emotions. I remember pausing mid-curse in elementary schooltrying to puzzle out why softchocolate is such a terrible thing (though I admit I do like my chocolate crisp).Long after graduating into the world of un-beeped profanity, I occasionally find the same old four-letter words a little tiring. I have tried swearing in other languages, but a look at historical and popular creative curses opens a whole new world, within which is a whole province of food-related oaths. On public television, it is okay to take the name of “cheese and crackers” in vain, to call someone “nuts” or “bananas,” though “mussel-shucker” is sort of pushing it, try “son of a biscuit” instead. The new expletive of choice for the under-tens may be “Oh, tartar sauce!” It goes well with oysters, or as the Spanish say “¡Ostras!” instead of “¡Hostia!” (communion wafer).In Québec, swearing can get elaborate to the point of muttering “cinq six boîtes de tomatesvartes” (five six boxes of green tomatoes) in place of “saint-siboire de tabarnac”(holy ciborium of the tabernacle).
Before things become too blasphemous and truly nerdy, it is time to return to talking about real food. In the spiritof the ticklishly lyrical syllables of “suffering succotash,” I am reintroducing the all-American classicof corn and beans with an irreverent addition of some distinctiveMiddle Eastern ingredients. The corn, zucchini, tomato, and red pepper are native to American soil and let none of them be missed, as each adds a unique texture and sweetness to the dish.Instead of the traditional lima beans, use the less starchy fresh favas found seasonally in Middle Eastern and farmers’ markets (Manhattan Fruit Exchange at Chelsea Market also carries them). Finish the dish with a pinch of sumac, anoverflowing handful of mint, and a generousscattering of pistachios or pomegranate seeds, whichare some of the oldest produce of the Old World.Optionally, as homage to the Colombian exchange, and to lend some smokiness to the mix, fry up thin slices of Spanish cured chorizo in olive oil before adding the vegetables. Spanish chorizo is cured with sweet smokypimentón, which in turn is made from red peppers that were first introduced to Spain from the Americas in 1493. For those who like it extra tart, serve it with a spoonful of rosy shallot relish. The dish is a beautiful mess, and so gorram delicious.
If you have any comments, suggestions, questions or other tasty tidbits, contact DuanDuan at SnackBar.Kitchen@gmail.com.
Suffering Succotash
Ingredients
olive oil, a generous glug
2 inches Spanish cured chorizo, finely sliced/diced (optional)
1 zucchini, diced
1 red pepper, diced
1 ear of corn, shave kernels from cob
½ cup fresh fava beans, twice-shelled
salt and pepper, to taste
½ pint grape tomatoes, quartered
1 bunch of mint, shredded
sumac, to taste
sherry vinegar, taste
1 handful of pistachios, roughly chopped (optional)
1 handful of pomegranate seeds (optional)
Shallot relish
1 large shallot, roughly diced
rice vinegar, a generous glug
sugar,to taste
Method
Shallot relish: combine all ingredients and let sit while making the succotash.
Heat olive oil (and chorizo if using) ina large pan over high heat.Add zucchini and fry till edges are golden. Add pepper and corn. Sauté till pepper is tender, a few minutes. Stir in fava beans. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sauté for another couple of minutes till all vegetables are sweet and just tender. Turn off heat.
Stir in tomatoes, mint, and pistachios or pomegranate if using. Finally stir in sumac, and vinegar to taste.Serve hot or at room temperature. Add a dollop of shallot relish for an extra kick of freshness.
