The Public Theatre recently “officially reopened” after a $40 million major renovation which includes the addition of a new hidden restaurant created on a floor that had not been there before. It is off the new lobby and up a staircase to the left, with not too much signage. Looking like it has been there forever and called The Library, it is an attractive Rockwell Group designed space that has a patina about it. It conjures up a bygone era from New York and has an original cocktail menu along with six good beers on draft. It addition to its look, the Public managed to draw in some of the brightest New York City talent into the dining room and kitchen.
Andrew Carmellini worked for Daniel Boulud and then in a surprising move, opened A Voce with a contemporary Italian menu in a space around the corner from the now defunct Tabla; it subsequently expanded. He left there to open Locanda Verde, which continues to be a very sought after NYC reservation and then opened The Dutch, a creative restaurant celebrating old New York in a new fashioned way. Some of it is in his menu at The Library which also serves as the Kitchen for Joe’s Pub, an institution within a New York institution.
The food is a casual menu with smaller plates to more heavy meals. It is possible to eat relatively lightly or to go all out, hopefully after or when theatre is not involved. After seeing the larger than life musical play of the classic movie Giant, I enjoyed dinner in a relative quiet restaurant on Thanksgiving evening. The meal started with some Pizza Popcorn which sounded intriguing and although freshly popped, popcorn, seasoned with pizza flavors and dusted with Parmigiano Reggiano sounded as though it was made to be a perfect snack, it somehow did not come together as well as was imagined. It looked appetizing, but was the weakest link at dinner. Fennel glazed BBQ ribs and crabmeat rolls or tacos were great snacks that were elevated to a higher standard under the auspices of Carmellini. Ribs were spicy and not too sweet with the taste of fennel. The crabmeat was mild and not overwhelmed by the salsa. Portions were a pleasant size, not overly challenging to finish. The next course included a Sicilian style pasta dish; I had eaten a similar cauliflower dish at Locanda Verdi a few nights before. Orecchiette pasta, toasted pine nuts, sultanas or white raisins, a bit of cheese and seasonings, all complimented the taste of cauliflower. Catskill trout, along with lentils and butternut squash was a mild mannered dish that tasted fresh and had a delicateness. Also on the menu are more hardy options that include grilled lamb chops and short rib goulash. There is a limited dessert menu, which is priced gently. We had the gala apple crisp served with soft serve ice cream. It was a generous portion and satisfying. I think there is reason to go into The Public Theatre not to see theatre but just to have a simple meal that can also become more elaborate, open from 5:30pm till late. In addition to our surprise, a discount of 20% was generously offered if you are a member. The addition of a good in-house kitchen for The Library, and open to the public and for Joe’s Pub, The Public becomes an even better New York institution.
212 539-8777 – 425 Lafayette Street at Astor Place
